Entertainment

Dior celebrates couture craft, as maskless Delevingne irks

January 25, 2022 10:23 am

[Source: The Associated Press]

The atelier — the workshop of hands — took the Dior center stage on Monday for a refined show on the first day of Paris couture week, which aims to elevate the work of the house’s behind-the-scenes seamstresses.

The stars came out in droves to the Musee Rodin venue, including actress Rosamund Pike and “The Crown” star Claire Foy, who posed for cameras, exclaiming: “It’s beautiful. I’m in awe.”

Another VIP in attendance, model and actress Cara Delevingne, was criticized for not donning a mask.

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Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to show how the craft of the “petites mains” seamstresses, some of whom have worked in the Dior atelier for decades, was equally important as the art or fashion itself.

This muse was a springboard for a sumptuous and archetypally couture display.

A case in point were the teeming white beaded tapestry embroideries gracing a structured ecru wool twill coat. Here more than ornamental, the chic embroideries actually created the garment’s silhouette through sheer heaviness and swag.

Elsewhere, an ash gray crepe skirt with a high waist made a same statement: It seemed almost alive thanks to myriad long embroideries rustling and shaking on the pixie-like model.

Speaking through the clothes, Chiuri seemed to be saying: Art and craft are one and the same.

Embroidered tights were also a big theme for spring, with Dior’s army of seamstresses having gone to work in embellishing several statement pieces. Unfortunately the sheer weight of the paillette embroidering did not always cut the most flattering of shapes on some of the tights, all be them finely executed.

In style terms, there were hints of the on-trend 60s, with features such as Peter Pan collars appearing on sensuous sheer organza blouses, or neat fitted Bar silhouette tuxedo suits with bold menswear black satin lapels.

Stringent measures have been implemented across Paris Fashion Week to comply with French government guidance amid a surge of omicron-driven new infections.

COVID-19, which has has brought the fashion industry to its knees, has seen the cancellation of countless shows, even ending entire seasons, and fashion shows are only being staged again on condition that guests show proof of vaccination and wear face masks while seated. It’s the same rule for everyone whether celebrity or journalist. France is currently registering Europe’s highest-ever daily coronavirus cases.

Actress Rosumund Pike set a fine example by carefully putting on her face mask as soon as she sat down even despite wearing an intricate couture Dior headpiece. Nearby, “The Crown” star Claire Foy also donned a mask after passing the photo call.